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Thread: Bedding a 6 lug Mark V

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    910

    Default Bedding a 6 lug Mark V

    I'm preparing to bed my 7mm-08 6 lug Mark V. As I was getting it ready I noticed something and thought I'd ask what the "proper" way is to bed the rear action screw on a Mark V 6 lug.

    As you see in the photos, the action has a "pillar" attached to it which is where the rear action screw threads into. This mates, more or less, to the aluminum pillar that is in the stock.

    My question is, how much do you bed the rear pillar that is attached to the action, if at all? Is it fully encased in Devcon, or should I throw a few layers of tape around it so that it doesn't touch the Devcon but rather floats in it? And if so, how particular should I get about the mating surface between the stock pillar and this action pillar?

    Or should I just bed the front screw and recoil lug and ignore the rear?

    Patrick
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rear action pillar.jpg   rear stock pillar.jpg   rear pillar mating.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    910

    Default Re: Bedding a 6 lug Mark V

    Anyone?

    I am not sure how I can verify that the rear action pillar actually touches the aluminum below, and didn't learn much by trying a bit of Play-Doh in there to see if that would squeeze out and give me a ballpark measurement.
    I was thinking of sanding off a bit of the area that supports the side and rear of the action, as the action has obviously compressed the textured black paint. This should allow the rear action pillar to rest on the aluminum below.
    I was then going to bed the front lug and the sides, but not bed the rear pillar area itself.

    Has anyone ever done a 6 lug rifle?

    Patrick

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    US, Tx, Houston
    Posts
    317

    Default Re: Bedding a 6 lug Mark V

    Consider using a #2 pencil and coat the aluminum with pencil lead. Then wrap some white paper around the rear action pillar. Hold the paper it in place with a rubber band. Increase the thickness of the paper until it marks with pencil lead. Just a thought.

  4. Default Re: Bedding a 6 lug Mark V

    If I was going to bed the action, I would have made sure the pillar was free floating.
    Then I would have bedded the tang as I would on a 9 lug.
    To make sure, just add a small amount of model clay on the bottom of the pillar.
    Then tighten and see if it sticked to the alu block.
    If it does, grind of some steel and go ahead and bed the rifle.
    I'm quite sure the pillars are in contact, if not the tighting of the rear screw will be critical.

    RUM = Poor Man's Weatherby!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    910

    Default Re: Bedding a 6 lug Mark V

    I think they're supposed to touch, but my preference is that they touch before I screw in the rear action screw, i.e. I don't want to compress the stock with the rear screw, just tighten the rear pillar in place.

    I've also thought about using a small dental-type mirror to see the pillars when the action is installed, but I don't own one.

    I agree that the pillar is probably supposed to float.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    40

    Default Re: Bedding a 6 lug Mark V

    I just re-bedded a ulw in 25-06. The rear projection that receives the trigger guard screw is not designed to touch the trigger guard. The clearance in my rifle is .174 inch. The rear of the action is supposed to bed against the aluminum stock insert. I applied rouge and reinstalled the action. Upon action removal, the transferred rouge showed the rear contact points. These were spotty, and mostly on one side. I lightly filed and "spotted-in" the action until it had even contact against the aluminum stock insert. Then I removed the "hot melt glue" in the bottom of the recoil lug recess, which is where the front was bedded. This allowed the flat portion of the action to fully contact the aluminum insert. The front of the stock had a pressure pad contacting the barrel. My scale didn't go far enough to measure the contact force, but is was above 20pounds! Removing the pressure pad still allowed a contact pressure of about 4 lbs. As I wanted a free floating barrel, I rebedded the action with full contact of the barrel for the first 1 1/2 inch in front of the receiver, and sanded out the barrel channel to eliminate any contact. Originally, the groups at 200 meters were "improved cylinder", with 60% of shots missing the target board. Initial tests showed 3 shot groups af about 1 inch. When the weather improves (currently -2 degrees F), I will try to fine tune the load for best accuracy. I think the excessive barrel pressure was the main problem.
    WYLD

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